Random Wire Antenna with Ground Radial System (inverted “L”)

Over the last two weeks I have been putting together a ground counterpoise system to go along with my random length antenna (see original post).

I started with a basic radial plate (DX Engineering) and purchased a kit that included 500ft of wire and various hardware for 20 radials.

To get started…I decided to build myself a quick spreadsheet to determine the lengths of radials I wanted, per band, and to determine if I had enough wire to finish the job. This is what I ended up with:

Excel File

With a little bit of planning, I determined that I could get my longest radials nearly 180° from each other off my radial plate if I ran one radial to the back corner and took the other radial down the side of my house. Furthermore, I believed that I could achieve the most vertical height out of my antenna if I placed my radial plate directly near the base of the tree (nearest to my shack). My basic design is as following (not all details about antenna and radials are shown):


Building the radials went rather quickly using the fancy wire strippers I also ordered from DX Engineering. I made the mistake of thinking this would take me the longest amount of time…cause once I got outside…it took me forever to get the lines laid out and then bolted/staked into place. I started with the longest wires first then worked my way “up the bands” to the shortest wires trying to get them more evenly distributed around fences, trees, decks, garden, and the trampoline. It was at this point that my wife began wonder if I was building a set of electrified “trip wires” to take out my kids and pets :).

My radial plate looks like this (see below). Pay attention to the wire strain relief and camping stakes (used to hold the base plate in place…four aluminum on the sides, and one orange in the center).



With 75ft of wire left on the spool, after building the radials, I had the perfect length for 8 bands length I was shooting for (see purple in diagram).

Shooting lines through the first tree was the most challenging part because I had a certain path I wanted the wire to exit at the top of the tree (where the wire goes from vertical to horizontal towards the neighbor tree). I must have made 20 shoots with the slingshot to make it. It actually took two precise shots…one for the rope to pull up the isolator used to make the turn from vertical to horizontal (this one was easy) and one to make the path for the wire antenna (this is the one that took multiple tries).

To illustrate the path…starting from the at the far end of the random wire I attached isolator and connected it via rope to a heavy duty bungee cord.

I then routed it to a plastic clothesline pulley I found at Home Depot.

Here is the last turn (not illustrated good here but you get the idea).
Antenna Vertical

Lastly…I placed coax seal around the connection point (using electrical tape first, then coax seal, then more electrical tape…it looks ugly because I had issues going underneath…it wasn’t neat…but will get the job done.


Here is plot showing the full range from 0 to 54Mhz. You will notice a number of dips in the SWR (this scale only goes up to 6) in the plot (yellow areas approx. the amatuer radio band plans). In some cases this is good…in others…not so good.
Full Range

80M was a surprise:

12M, 17M, and 30M did not look to bad either:



However, when I took a closer look at 20M and 40M I noticed that they were not doing well (my areas of improvement):

Thankfully the tuner on my KXPA100 (the KX3 AMP) tunes them to down around 1.2 or so so I should be able to work with those bands until I can figure out some changes to experiment with.

All in all…I am happy so far with the antenna progress. Now to see if works better than the attic dipole that I have.

FT5ZM – Amsterdam Island (11,400+ miles away)

After trying to work them for 3 or 4 days I finally broke through yesterday and made a clean contact on 20M CW. They were very strong yesterday and pile up wasn’t too bad so it only took about 30 minutes to work them.

My first contact was a bust and likely went to K4TX (I even sent him an email to see if he was trying to work them).

I am very glad my 100W amp came in time to work them. I definitely wanted to use all that power to make the contact (to make up for the “compromise” fan dipole in my attic).


Win4K3suite – KX3

About a month ago I read on the KX3 Yahoo group about new software called Win4K3suite.  During the holidays I decided to give the 30 day trial a go.

Here is a great video overview provided by the software’s designer Tom, VA2FSQ.

Download, execution, and setup are pretty straightforward.  Tom has a two great video tutorials to help a new user set up the KX3 Spectrum Scope and any 3rd party products (like N1MM and LOG4OM).

Be sure to use the latest Kx3 firmware version.  I had an error using beta firmware that was easily resolved moving back production firmware.  Tom, who has been very responsive to my questions, mentioned that there have been issues with old firmware as well.

Once the software is setup it works.  To be more precise it works very well!  Personally I am a big fan of simple software like this that is easy to setup and just works well.

The Control Center Window has a great layout.  It really feels like you have full control of the KX3.  There is even a “SPOT” button in the menu (and it actually works).  


The spectrum scope is nice.  It is a bit different from what I am used to with NaP3/PowerSDR in terms of looks and function.  The scope is in a separate window…which can be very nice if you have two screens…but you may have problems fitting both on one screen (without any overlapping windows).  I also found that I cannot keep just the spectrum scope up if I close the control center window.  Point click tuning, the most important feature in any panadapter, works well (accomplished by a double click).   The spectrum scope always seems to be correct when I switch modes, etc (not like the issue that I have with NaP3).  Having had a Flexradio for a number of years I do notice a few things missing…the first is the on screen adjustable filtering that you can do NaP3/PowerSDR.  Second, I miss the great mouse controls to move through the spectrum scope easily.  Lastly, I really do enjoy the Panafall/Spanafall  “look” with NaP3/PowerSDR (with AVG turned on).  This scope feels a bit more bland.  Overall, the Win4K3 Spectrum Scope is different (not worse)…so it may just take me some time to get used to it.  I believe that Elecraft Owners with a P3 will enjoy it.  


Tom tells me that the panadapter is new (version 1.0) so there may be additional improvements once he had heard more feedback from beta testers.

Setup with 3rd party software is also pretty straightforward.  In this case, I simply used a pair of virtual ports (Com4 and Com5) I previously set up in com0com to connect N1MM to Win4K3.    There really isn’t too much else to it.



Overall this program works very well and I would suggest that everyone give it a try (30 day trial) to see if it will work for them.   The software costs, $50, is well worth it if the software has a permanent place in your shack.

PROS:  Easy setup, clean layout, great rig control, and responsive service (with Tom)

CONS:  If you are a PowerSDR/NaP3 user the spectrum scope will take some time getting used to.  Its not bad…just different.

KXBC3 – Notes

Today I was reading the KX3 Yahoo Group messages and came accross a conversation regarding the optional internal battery charger on the KX3.

Here are some notes I wanted to remember so I figured I would post them here (my thanks to Mark, KE6BB for his original response to the KX3 Yahoo Group):

  • There is a temperature protection feature in the KXBC3 that will display a message of “NOT 0-40C” if the cells go above the maximum specified temperature.
  • If the “NOT 0-40C” message appears during a charging cycle…then the charging cycle will resume once the condition is corrected (it is not known if that includes just letting the batteries cool down).
  • If using the recommended > 1900mA NiMH batteries it would be difficult to over charge these batteries using the KXBC3 (based on the constant charge rate and temperature protection)
  • If using modern NiMH batteries then there is no need to fully charge or fully discharge them to reduce memory effect.
  • Going to 100% occasionally is a good idea since that helps level out the voltages of individual cells
  • Never let the cells’ voltages drop below about 1v per cell (cell damage may occur and potentially the KXBC3 will not start its charge cycle)
  • Lastly, it is good practice to occasionaly check the voltage of each battery, after a good charging, to see if they are still with a few tenths of each other

The KX3 will turn itself off at 7.5V (or 7.0V depending on where you see it in the KX3 manual) so you will likely not run into the risk of going damaging the cells due to low voltage.

KXBC3 Manual is here

Here is more on the errors messages related to the KXBC3 (see image below):


KXPA100 Order Number to Date Converter

Having recently ordered a KXPA100 I have begun to take notice of order confirmations that others post to the KX3 yahoo group. I plan to use these as a gauge for when I might receive my amp.

Today, somebody posted their order number as: 2285-8685-3232

A quick way to see when they ordered is to go to Thomas’s (M0TRN) website here.


I guess I have a ways to go before I get mine…

KX3 – Trouble Shooting NaP3 – Sampling Rate Error

It has been awhile since I have connected my KX3 to NaP3 so today I decided to give this a try.

When I connected…I noticed this (the signal did not show across the full bandwidth):

I took a look at my settings…they looked fine (I like to keep mine at 96K).

To investigate I selected 48K and then noticed that the signal went wide.

Then when I selected 192K and noticed that the signal went really short:

At this point I realized that I had connected the R/Q output into the back of my computer and that I needed to adjust the mic input.


I made the change and guess what…it worked.

After all this…I then realized that I had originally configured the Line In jack on my computer…and had simply connected into the wrong jack (in this case the microphone).

Nevertheless, I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this same issue.

2013 CQ WW CW Contest

This weekend I had a few hours to play in the 2013 CQ WW CW Contest.

It was definitely a very fun contest.  I worked it for about 2 hours Saturday and worked 52 stations (which I feel by my standards is not too bad…see setup below).  I also thought that overall band conditions were quite good as well.

My setup was really modest with my KX3 set to 5 watts and a simple fan dipole (20M, 15M, and 10M) in the attic. I used N1MM (configured to send KY Codes) to key the radio and send my callsign and exchange.  Furthermore, I only worked stations whose CW signals the KX3 could mostly decode (I am still learning the code).

I decided I would start at the bottom of the band on 20M and work my way up (which I did) and then hit 15M if I had time (and I made a handful of contacts there).

Two notable contacts I made that I want to mention here:

Japan (JH1GEX – Yatuka) – This was the last contact I made in the contest.  He had a very strong signal and he came back to me after the first call.  I could tell he was keying by hand as his spacing was off slightly but the callsign was definitely mine.  At 6,880 miles away (according to QRZ)…I believe it would surely qualify for any of the QRP 1000 Miles per Watt awards.

NOTE:  One more thing…I always like to pull up the interesting countries I work on Google Maps/Earth and occasionally I like to plot out a path from my QTH to the DX Station.  I was very surprised to learn that my contact with JH1GEX was off the end of my dipoles!  See image far below.

Swaziland (3DA0ET – 2013 Swaziland DXpedition) – This was a surprise for me.  I had not expected to work any DXpeditions during the contest…but I heard these guys well and worked them easily.  I decided to look up the callsign on QRZ before I moved up the band.  The other thing I noticed is that these guys are about 8,642 miles away (according to QRZ).   Pretty happy about this one.  Plus, I am already confirmed in LOTW.  Yeah!

All in all this contest was a lot of fun for me.  I hope to be able to do this again next year.

Path (white line) of my contact with JH1GEX (Japan) relative to my dipole (which follows the roof line of my house).

Update KX3-2M Module – Images and Notes

Thanks to others who attending Pacificon we now have a few more photos of the KX3-2M module.

I know that many are looking forward to this as evidence of Wayne’s recent post on the KX3 Yahoo Group Blog and the 19 messages that followed (which contain great details).


My thanks to Scott, AK6Q (http://www.gemsproducts.com/) who posted these images to the KX3 Yahoo Group:


Here is the note that was included in this image:

This is from PACIFICON, here is the SMA Antenna port as well as a shot of the 2M card installed it is the second card up from the gold SMA connector.

IMG_0921Here is the note that was included in this image:

Here is a shot again from PACIFICON of the KX3 Operating on simplex 146.520 the last two digits are 1.3 because of the need for temp compensation due the the newness of the board and not being completely updated. It was tx/rx on 146.520

Issues with Heil Pro Set Elite HC-6 (non iC) Dynamic Mic and KX3 (updated 12-16-13)

(See notes on update far below).


Original Post (Oct 16th, 2013)

Dynamic mics, today, are not a good choice for the KX3…see lengthy post below (there is hope though).

Until recently (see below) I owned a Heil Traveler Dual headset that I primarily used with my Flex-3000.  The headset worked well and performed flawlessly.


At the conclusion of our K4S IOTA Expedition I ended up swapping the Traveler headset for a Heil Pro Set Elite HC-6 (non iC) headset.


When I returned home I attempted to get the Heil Pro Set Elite HC-6 headset properly configured with my KX3.

Unfortunately I found that I could not drive the audio in the radio…even with mic gain turned all the way up and with the mic against my mouth.  Yelling would sometimes add a bar or two onto the ALC bar graph…and if any power was used…I would get out very little power (around 20% and up to 40% if yelling).

Adjusting ALC

Thinking that the headset mic had went bad…I went back to the prior owner who mentioned that he did not believe the mic was bad but remembered that he was having issues with a radio (ICOM 706 mkIIg) that he had plugged his headphone set into while we were down on Sapelo island.   He thought it was the radio giving him problems…but realized that it may be the microphone.

Also thinking that it may be a bad microphone I sent a note off to Heil asking if they had an ideas on how I could get it to work.  This was their reply:

The KX3 will work with the PSElite 6 but you must set your radio to either the high or low input.  Your manual should list what setting it should be on.  You will need the setting for NO BIAS power and for a dynamic mic. That should solve your problem as there is no adapter for the KX3, just have to plug the mic jack directly into the front panel.  

Ok…at this point I no longer thought that I had an issue with the microphone not working…and I began to suspect that it may be something else.  Since the KX3 only has two settings for the microphone and an option for “high or low” input is not one of them…I dug into the K3 manual (see page 20) to see what I could find.

K3 Mic Setting

Ok…this tells me something…I guess there are two types of microphones, electret or dynamic, and that they may low or high mic gain depending on the type.

After digging the web for more information I found the following on the Elecraft boards which confirmed what I was now thinking.

KX3 Mic Gain

After a quick note to Elecraft I also received the reply:

“The KX3 does not have a mic preamp stage like the K3 does.”

Ok…so I guess, at the present time, dynamic microphones are not good for the KX3.  There is hope though…during my exchanges with Elecraft I received the following from customer support:


There is still a few weeks to go before I can follow up with Elecraft…but will post the results if there is a positive outcome.


UPDATE 12-16-13 (See original post above)

Last week Wayne (from Elecraft) sent me a note directly asking me to test some experimatental firmware he created to address this dynamic mic issue.

Here are some notes he provided with the request:

Firware provides additional mic gain (up to 20dB more)
Mic gain range is now 0-80 rather than 0-40 (in current firmware)
The extra gain required in the HC-6 element can cause acoustic feedback (via the KX3’s MONiter focution)
The extra gain required for the HC-6 allows a greater susceptability to noise
Wayne suggested to set mic level at lowest setting that works with the mic (he gave 60 to 65 for this mic)
Wayne also suggested to keep the voice MON setting very low (if used at all).

I didn’t have a chance to test last weekend…but plan to do some soon.

Solved – KX3 Fldigi Issue (XMIT on Plug Connection into Mic)

On my original Fldigi setup post there are a few comments that mentioned that the radio would go into transmit (XMIT) when connecting a plug into the microphone socket on the KX3.  I did not have this issue so I could not direct others to a solution.

Today I found the same issue trying to connect a new Heil Pro Set Elite to the KX3.  When I connected the microphone the radio would go into transmit.

This is actually a fairly easy fix and was mentioned by “Terry” in the comments.

When I investigated I found that my radio had the MIC BTN settings as “Ptt UP.dn”…apparently to allow functionality for the MH3 hand mic.


KX3 MIC Settings (Before)



I just turned the MIC BTN settings to “OFF” and that seemed to solve the problem with the Heil headset.

KX3 MIC Settings (After)



As also mentioned by “Terry” you will need to change these settings if you go back to the MH3 microphone.